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INTRODUCTION

This instruction sheet details the correct procedure for installation of your new RACING BEAT DELLORTO INDUCTION SYSTEM. While you do not need to be a mechanic to successfully complete these instructions, you should have basic mechanical skills and a familiarity with the engine.

For your convenience, your new RACING BEAT INDUCTION SYSTEM has already been completely assembled and adjusted. The following procedures are your key to enjoyment of the most Powerful and responsive intake system available for your rotary engine; A system which also delivers better-than-stock fuel economy under cruise conditions!

 

IMPORTANT NOTES

  1. TO OBTAIN ADVERTISED PERFORMANCE, EXHAUST HEADERS MUST BE INSTALLED ON THE ENGINE. WE ALSO STRONGLY RECOMMEND THE USE OF OUR "POWER-PULSE" PRESILENCER AND PRIMA-FLOW MAIN MUFFLER TO ENSURE MAXIMUM OUTPUT AND A PLEASANTLY QUIET, THROATY EXHAUST NOTE.
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  3. IF THE CAR WILL BE DRIVEN MODERATELY, WITH ONLY SHORT BURSTS (LESS THAN 10 SECONDS) AT FULL POWER, THE STOCK FUEL PUMP MAY BE ADEQUATE. HOWEVER, IF THE CAR WILL HE DRIVEN FOR LONGER PERIODS AT FULL POWER, THE STOCK PUMP MUST BE REPLACED WITH A LARGER CAPACITY UNIT TO AVOID FUEL STARVATION AT HIGH RPM.
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  5. PRIOR TO INSTALLATION YOU SHOULD HAVE AVAILABLE THE FOLLOWING MATERIALS. THEY ARE NOT SUPPLIED IN THE KIT BUT ARE REQUIRED TO COMPLETE THE INSTALLATION: 1 CALLON OF ANTIFREEZE; A SMALL TUBE. OF "SILICON SEAL" CASKET SEALER.'

 

   

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

1. Drain all coolant from the engine and radiator. Remove the stock intake manifold with carburetor and emission control valves. Remove the air pump and metering oil pump rod. Remove the hot start assist motor.

2. If the engine is already equipped with a header, proceeed to step 3. If not, this is the most convenient time to remove the exhaust manifold and any other exhaust system components which you plan to replace, and install your header system. Be sure to securely cover the intake ports to prevent foreign matter from entering the engine during this operation.

3. If your engine's front and rear side housings are equipped with intake manifold attachment studs, remove them.

4. Remove all traces of the original intake gasket from the engine. Put a small amount of gasket sealer around the water ports in the new intake gasket. Install the new water passage "O" rings (supplied) in the rotor housing recess.

5. Remove file tape from the lower intake manifold flange and the carburetor air horns. Clean off any tape residue. Inspect the carburetor venturies and manifold passages. This is your f inal opportunity to ensure that no foreign matter, tape or cleaning material has entered the intake system. Install the air cleaner using the nylock nuts. Be careful not to over-tighten the nuts, as this can damage the aluminum air cleaner cap. For best appearance, use a small putty knife or flat blade screwdriver to tuck the foam filter edges up under the aluminum caps.

6. Install the intake manifold/carburetoraassembly using-the four socket head screws (supplied) and the two stock nuts and lockwashers. Prior to tightening, pull upward on the manifold to align the ports. Tighten the screws and nuts. A-6mm allen wrench is provided for this purpose.

NOTE: The center-ports on the intake manifold do not exactly match the intake gasket or the engine. THIS IS INTENTIONAL. Do not grind the intake manifold to match the engine if stock porting is used, or you will not get the best results.

7. Insert the new metering oil pump rod into the pump arm, then attach it to the carburetor arm on the front of the carburetor using the black linkage clip provided. S1ip the small flat washer onto the rod from the lower end and insert the cotter pin. There should be virtually zero clearance between the top of the washer and the underside of the round portion of the pump arm (see Figure 1). If necessary, bend the metering oil pump rod to arrive at this clearance. Metering oil pump performance can to checked using the procedure noted in the Recommendations section of these instructions.

 

NOTE: REFER TO FIGURE 2 FOR STEPS 8-18

8. Remove tire rubber tube from the end of the longer metering oil pump tube and install the new rubber tube. Connect the two metering oil pump tubes to the fittings adjacent to the carburetor float bowl.

9. Unscrew the jam nut from the end of the throttle cable adjustment housing. On some RX-7 models the last few threads have been crushed to avoid accidental unscrewing of the nut. However this will not prevent you from removing the nut. Insert the throttle cable housing into its bracket. Then insert the barrel shaped portion of the cable end into the holes in the links attached to the carburetor throttle arm, so that the cable wire is situated between the links. Tighten the bolt that holds the links to the throttle lever so that the links are just able to rotate on the lever. Adjust.the linkage so that full throttle occurs when throttle pedal touches the floor.

10. Remove the fuel high-temp bypass hose from the tube leading back to the tank (the carburetor end of this hose was connected.to the top of the fuel inlet fitting, and it is the middle of the (3) tubes on the firewall, that come from the rear of the car). Install the cap on this tube.

11. Connect the fuel pressure hose to the carburetor using the small hose provided.

12. All Model 1976-1980: Remove a short hose from the stock intake and connect it between the fuel tank evaporation control tube (the lowest of the 3 lines on the firewall) and the short tube on the intermediate housing just below the oil filler tube. RX-7 1981-1985 require no change from stock.

13. Remove the choke cable pivot from the choke lever on top of the carburetor. Screw the choke adjustment nut fully onto the threaded section, then screw the pivot onto the end of the choke cable sheath to a position in the middle of the threaded section. Reattach the pivot to the choke lever. Do not tighten yet. Slip the cable end into the bracket just ahead of the choke lever and tighten the cable retaining screw. Check that the choke operates smoothly and both opens and closes fully. Choke cable length is adjusted by screwing the choke cable pivot on the threaded section of the cable sheath. When cable length adjustment is completed, tighten the cable pivot onto the cable lever.

NOTE: Mazda choke cables are equipped with an electromagnetic "hold on" and "shut-off" mechanism which senses coolant tempertures. When the engine is cold, pull the choke knob fully with the ignition switch off. The knob should return automatically to the off position. With the ignition on, the know should "hold-on" in whatever position is selected until the coolant warms, then be released and close fully.

14. Use the rubber hose provided to connect the vent tube on the oil filler neck to the fitting on the carburetor air cleaner.

15. Connect the power brake hose to the intake manifold fitting using the large hose clamp provided.

NOTE: Distributor vacum advance is not used with this intake system.

16. Ensure all coolant drain plugs, petcocks and radiator hoses are sealed. Refill the cooling system with 1 gal. of antifreeze and water.

17. Before starting the engine, re-check throttle and choke for smooth operation and fully opening/closing. Certain late model cars require that the.engine be cranking or runing before the fuel pump will operate. Therefore you may need to crank for several seconds before there is enough fuel in carburetor float bowl to run the engine. For all other cars, the float bowl may be filled simply by holding the ignition key in the run position for a few seconds before starting.

NOTE: Do not be alarmed by the hissing sound when the engine is running on the choke. This is simply the choke's air bypass circuit and indicates normal choke operation.

18. Once the engine is warm, idle should be 700-750 RPM. ldle speed is adjusted with the idle speed screw (near the throttle lever) and should be about 3 turns open from the fully closed position. The idlemixture should be adjusted by turning in each screw until the engine just peaks in RPM, then backing off the screw 1 turn. Reset idle RPM and repeat this procedure if necessary.

 

RECOMMENDATIONS

Ignition Advance: (Check at 700 RPM)

1976 12A

Leading 2° BTC

Trailing 15° ATC

1977-1983 12A

Leading 2° BTC

Trailing 19° ATC

1984-1985 12A

Leading 0° BTC (stock)

Trailing 20° ATC (stock)

 

Fuel Pump:

76-78 RX-3 Facet Fuel Pumps (Racing Beat part# 16587)

79-83 RX-7 Dellorto Fuel Pump Kit (Racing Beat part# 16578)

84-85 RX-7 Dellorto Fuel Pump Kit (Racing Beat part# 16579)

 

Fuel Filter:

We recommend installing a FRAM G-12 in the fuel pressure line immediately upstream of the carburetor

 

Spark Plugs:

Nippondenso W25EDR-14

NGK BR8EQ-14

* NGK B7EV @ .020" GAP

* In 1981-85 engines a special RACING BEAT spark plug socket is necessary to install and remove these spark plugs.

 

Metering Oil Pump Checking Procedure:

1. With the engine warm, disconnect the two metering oil pump tubes at the carburetor. Set engine speed at 2000 RPM while holding the tubes over the red plastic cap provided in the kit. After six minutes the cap should be 1/3 full (2 cc).

2. Hold the metering oil pump arm in the full throttle position while maintaining 2000 RPM. The red plastic cup should be full (6 cc) in six minutes.

Caution

While the measurements we being taken, a proper amount of clean engine oil should be added into the carburetor.

 

TROUBLE SHOOTING

If you encounter a problem with the engine performance, your first step should be to re-read the instructions and verify that all procedures have been correctly completed. Should your problem persist, the following list will assist you in locating the source of trouble.

Problem

Possible Cause

Rough Idle

1. Incorrectly adjusted idle mixture

2. Fuel inlet needle valve held open by foreign material

3. Idle fuel jets clogged

4. Incorrect float level

High Idle

1. Incorrectly adjusted idle speed

2. Air leak through manifold gasket

Hesitation or Stumble on Acceleration

1. Accelerator pump linkage incorrectly adjusted

2. Accelerator pump passages clogged by foreign material

3. Idle mixture to lean

4. Low float level

Poor High RPM Power

1. Low fuel pressure caused by

    1. inadequate fuel pump
    2. dirty fuel filter
    3. fuel line damaged or crimped

2. Incorrect float level